Gold-filled and gold-plated jewelry both have gold at the surface over another metal. But “gold-filled” describes a mechanically applied gold-alloy layer, while “gold-plated” is a broader description that can cover different application methods. Neither label means the piece is gold alloy all the way through.

The Federal Trade Commission's consumer guide explains the distinction. Gold-filled, gold overlay and rolled gold plate use a gold layer mechanically applied to a base metal. Electroplating applies the layer through an electrolytic process.

What does 1/20 14K GF mean?

Under the FTC Jewelry Guides' examples of acceptable descriptions, “Gold Filled” may be used when a mechanically applied gold-alloy layer of at least 10 karat makes up at least one-twentieth of the metal weight of the article, with reasonable durability and the required surface coverage.

In a mark such as “1/20 14K GF,” the 14K describes the outer alloy. The fraction says that layer accounts for one-twentieth, or 5 percent, of the metal weight. It does not say the whole piece is 14K gold, or that 5 percent of the piece is pure gold.

Read the entire description. “14K gold-filled” and “14K gold” describe different constructions, even when their color looks similar.

Will the gold wear away?

A gold surface layer can wear away. The FTC says wear depends on the thickness of the plating and how the item is worn. A label alone cannot promise a particular number of years.

Ask the seller to put the construction, gold fineness, base metal and any stated layer thickness or weight fraction in writing. Get the care instructions and return policy before paying, especially when the listing makes broad promises about daily wear.

If a recently purchased piece changes color or starts losing its finish, keep the receipt and product description and contact the seller. Do not assume a photograph alone establishes whether it was mislabeled. The FTC recommends trying to resolve a purchase problem with the seller first.

The practical buying rule is simple: pay for the construction the seller can explain and document. A gold color is only the beginning of that conversation.

About the author

Erica Diggs is a GIA Graduate Gemologist and the founder and editor of Drip With Diggs.