Here's how to walk into a jeweler and not get cooked.

Know the Weight

Gold chains are sold by the pennyweight (dwt) or gram. Always ask for the weight before the price. A "$2,000 Cuban link" means nothing without the weight. A solid 14K Cuban at 80 grams is a different conversation than a hollow 14K Cuban at 30 grams sold for the same price.

Know the Karat

  • 10K: 41.7% gold. Durable, affordable, holds up to daily wear.
  • 14K: 58.3% gold. The sweet spot. Most chains are made here.
  • 18K: 75% gold. Richer color, softer metal. Statement pieces.

More karats = more pure gold = more value, but also softer metal. Pick the karat for the use.

Solid vs Hollow

Tap the chain. Listen. A solid chain has a heavy, dense sound. A hollow chain rings light. Better: weigh it. If a 24" Cuban weighs less than 50 grams in 14K, it's probably hollow. Hollow chains dent and crack. Solid chains last generations.

Questions to Ask Every Time

  1. What is the exact karat?
  2. What is the exact weight in grams?
  3. Is it solid or hollow?
  4. Do you stamp the karat?
  5. Will you provide an appraisal?

If they hesitate on any of these, walk. The Diamond District is full of jewelers. Some of them are honest. Find the honest ones.